汉服火了！〖中国日报〗专刊·汉服，适合每一个人穿的衣服！ ...

By Xing Wen | China Daily

Updated: 2018-03-03

One Sunday afternoon a little more than 16 years ago, 17 men and 3 women who stood in a row at the Shanghai Science and TechnologyMuseum were given aworldwide fanfare and it was as much what they were wearing as what they had been talking about that grabbed theworld's attention.

People's Daily reported that the main element was "a satin jacket featuring Chinese-style cotton buttons and round flower patterns with peonies surrounding the four letters of APEC, and a white silk shirt". They came in six colors, scarlet, blue, olive green, brown, burgundy and black.

在16年前的一个星期天下午，17名男性和3名女性在上海科技博物馆前排成一行，受到了来自全世界的追捧，正是他们所穿的衣服和他们所谈论的东西引起了全世界的关注。

据〖人民日报〗报道，主要元素是『一件以中式棉质纽扣为特色的缎子夹克和一件围绕APEC四个字母周围点缀着牡丹的圆形图案的白色丝绸衬衫。』 他们有六种颜色，猩红色，蓝色，橄榄绿色，棕色，酒红色和黑色。

Those who wore these jackets on Oct 21, 2001 were the leaders of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation forum economies, holding theirannual meeting in China for the first time since its founding 12 years earlier.

It had become the custom for the leaders to don traditional clothes of the host country on the final day of the forum, and speculation about what form this would take had become a popular guessing game. However, in China that guessing took a serious turn, with earnest debate about what, in this context, the term "traditional Chinese" could possibly mean.

那些在2001年10月21日穿着这些夹克的人是亚太经济合作论坛经济体的领导人，他们自12年前成立以来首次在中国举行年会。

在论坛的最后一天，各国领导人都习惯穿东道国的传统服装，关于这将采取何种形式的猜测已成为一种流行的猜谜游戏。然而，在中国，这种猜测发生了严重的转变，人们就『中国传统』一词在这里可能意味着什么展开了激烈的辩论。

▲Han cultural activities have frequently been organized by hanfu aficionados inrecent years to promote the traditional culture and clothes of Han people.

（近年来汉族爱好者经常组织汉族的文化活动来推广汉族的传统文化和服饰。）

The result was the tangzhuang, a hybrid based on Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) clothing and other, more modern, elements. A little more than 20 years after China began to open up to the world, and just three weeks before it became a member of the World Trade Organization, the aim of the forum organizers was apparently to highlight not only the country's traditions but its modernity as well.

JianhuaZhao, in his book The Chinese Fashion Industry: An Ethnographic Approach, says that the tangzhuang became extremely popular after the APEC meeting, but that in essence it was a fad that lasted for little more than a couple of years, even if the garment has become a set piece in the Chinese wardrobe.

其结果就是唐装，一种基于清代（1644-1911）服装和其他更现代的元素的混合物。在中国开始向世界开放的20多年之后，也就是在它成为世界贸易组织成员之前的三个星期，论坛组织者的目的显然是不仅强调该国的传统，还要强调其现代化。

Jianhua Zhao在他的英文著作〖The Chinese Fashion Industry: An Ethnographic Approach〗中说：在APEC会议后，唐装变得非常受欢迎，但实质上，这是一种持续了几年的时尚，即使它已经成为中国衣橱里的一件衣服。

However, the creation of the tangzhuang and the debate surrounding it appear to have been the genesis of a movement whose members show no sign of being content for their preferred garb to be mere space fillers in a wardrobe. These are the aficionados of traditional clothing based on that worn by the country's ethnic majority, the Han,5,000 years ago.

Though the term tangzhuang was deployed to describe the APEC jacket, there was no Chinese word in the early 2000s to denote clothing from the Han Dynasty, and the term eventually coined washanfu(Han clothing). The irony is that what has led to a revival in this centuries-old style of clothing and that keeps the flame flickering is 21st century technology the internet and social networking.

然而，唐装的创造和围绕唐装的争论似乎是一场运动的起源，其成员没有表现出将他们首选的外衣仅仅当作衣柜中的空间填充物的内容。这些都是传统服装的爱好者，他们的传统服装是以这个国家大多数民族——汉族人5000年前的服装为基础的。

虽然唐装这个词被用来形容APEC外套，但在21世纪初，没有汉语单词来表示汉代的服装，而这个词最终被创造出来的是汉服。具有讽刺意味的是，导致这种数百年历史的服装风格复兴的是21世纪的科技互联网和社交网络。

（近年来汉族爱好者经常组织汉族的文化活动来推广汉族的传统文化和服饰。）

One aficionado ofhanfuisWang Tianjiao, 24, of Shandongprovince.

"Tieba is where I first learned abouthanfu11 years ago,"Wangsays,referring to the community online forum Baidu Tieba.

"I was absolutely spellbound by this time-honored clothing."

She realized that few of her acquaintances had heard ofhanfu,and all the information she got about it came from Baidu Tieba andthe websitehanchc.com, where a movement to rejuvenatehanfugerminated.

汪天骄，24岁，一位来自山东省的汉服爱好者。

『 贴吧是我11年前第一次了解到汉服的地方，』汪说，她指的是社区在线论坛百度贴吧。

『我完全被这个历史悠久的服装迷住了。』

她意识到，她的熟人中很少有人听说过汉服，她得到的关于它的所有信息都来自百度贴吧和汉网，在那里，复兴汉服的运动开始了。

The dress on which contemporaryhanfuclothing is basedappeared as long as 5,000 years ago and prevailed throughdifferent dynasties in Chinese history until the Manchu establishedthe Qing Dynasty in 1644. The Qing regime banned the wearing ofHan clothes, and for the masses the custom of dressing in suchclothing gradually disappeared.

Four years after Wang came across the Baidu Tieba group, sheattended a hair-pinning ceremony, a traditional rite that marks Hangirls' passage into adulthood, at the Jinan Fuxue ConfuciusTemple, built during the Song Dynasty (960-1279) and restored asa tribute to Confucius in 2005.

Such activities have frequently been organized by hanfuaficionados inrecent years to promote the traditional culture andclothes of Han people.

现代汉服基于的服装是在五千年前出现的，流行于中国历史上的各个朝代，直到1644年满清入关。清朝禁止穿汉族服装，对广大群众来说，穿汉族服装的习俗逐渐消失。

在汪遇到百度贴吧四年之后，她在宋代（960-1279年）修建于2005年恢复的济南府学文庙参加了一场传统仪式，一种标志着汉族女孩成年的传统仪式。

近年来，汉服爱好者经常组织这种活动来推广弘扬汉族传统文化和服饰。

（近年来汉族爱好者经常组织汉族的文化活动来推广汉族的传统文化和服饰。）

Regionalhanfuorganizations have sprung up across thecountry. The annual Hanfu Cultural Festival held in the ancientscenic town ofXitang, Zhejiang province, draws more than 150,000 visitors. The event is streamed live by theonline-broadcasting platform Yingke and in November is said tohave attracted 167,000 viewers over four days.

Wang herself founded ahanfuclub after enrolling at theUniversity of Jinan in Shandong province in 2014. In preparation for its opening she and some friends donned quju, a type ofhanfuwith its right lapel wrapped around the body, and perform-ed dance for the university's art festival. The background musicwas Chong Hui Han Tang ("Dating back to the Han and Tangdynasties"), the theme song sung by a singer called Sun Yi forthehanfumovement.

全国各地都涌现出了区域性的汉服组织。每年一度的汉服文化周在浙江西塘古镇举行，吸引了超过15万游客参观。该活动由映客在线广播平台进行现场直播，据说在11月的四天里吸引了16.7万名观众。

汪本人在2014年就读山东济南大学后，创办了一家汉服协会。在为开幕做准备的过程中，她和一些朋友穿上了交领汉服，为大学的艺术节表演舞蹈。背景音乐是〖重回汉唐〗，『我愿重回汉唐』，这是一位名叫孙异的歌手为汉服运动演唱的主题曲。

Wang says she encourages club members to wearhanfuon traditional Chinese festivals. For example, on every 12th of the second lunar month, or "flower festival" which, according toChinese folklore, is the birthday of flowers, she holds ceremonie-s with her friends at Daming Lake in Jinan dressed, of course,inhanfu.

"I want to wear it in public so those who are curious about it orthe traditional etiquette behind it can learn about it. The revivalofhanfuis not about turning backthe clock or about cosplay. It's about passing down the culture of the largest ethnic group inChina, which runs from way back to ancient times."

One aspect of passing on that message is making the most of the technology at her disposal, and Wang says she often takes photographs when dressing in hanfu and posts them on SinaWeibo, China's answer to Twitter. She has nearly 70,000followers there.

汪说，她鼓励协会成员在中国传统节日里穿上汉服。例如，每逢夏历二月十二，也就是中国民间传说中的『花朝节』，她都会和她的朋友们在济南的大明湖举行庆祝仪式，当然，她还是身着一袭汉服。

她说：『我想在公共场合穿这件衣服，这样那些对它或它背后的传统礼仪感兴趣的人就能了解它。汉服的复兴不是复古，亦不是角色扮演。这是关于传承中国最大民族的文化，这种文化，可以追溯到古代。

传递这一信息的一个方面是充分利用所掌握的技术，汪说，她经常在穿着汉服时拍照，并把照片传到新浪微博上或者中国说法的推特软件上。她在那里有近7万名追随者。

▲Han cultural activities have frequently been organized by hanfu aficionados in recent years to promote the traditional culture and clothes of Han people.

（近年来汉族爱好者经常组织汉族的文化活动来推广汉族的传统文化和服饰。）

A pioneer in promotinghanfuon the internet wasthe websitehanfuhui.cn,which Liu Yinhong, 27, set up four years ago and issaid to now have more than 200,000 registered users.

Liu, of Shenzhen, was well placed to make the marriage betweenhanfuand new technology work, having earlier been a programmerfor a software developing and having coded Web pages in hisspare time.

"At that time,Tiebawas the largest online community for those who love hanfu, and there was no website for it. I wanted to design a platform on whichtongpao(a nickname forhanfulovers) could share pictures, organize online activities and post articles, all abouthanfu."

在网络上推广汉服的先驱是汉服荟网站，这是27岁的刘胤宏四年前建立的网站，据说现在已有超过20万的注册用户。

来自深圳的刘先生在把汉服和新技术结合起来方面处于优势地位，他早些时候曾是一名软件开发程序员，业余时间也有编码网页。

"当时，贴吧是汉服爱好者最大的在线社区，并没有网站。我想设计一个平台，在上面同袍（汉服爱好者的昵称）可以分享关于汉服的图片，组织在线活动和发表文章。

The site soon branched out into an online discussion board and shopping guide for all thingshanfu.About 80 percent of the users are aged 18 to 28, Liu says.

"The termhanfuextends beyond clothes, covering other cultural treasures such as tea art, archery and the zither."

There are of course moretraditional ways of propagatingthehanfulifestyle, such as on paper.

这个网站很快就发展成为一个在线讨论区和汉服购物指南。刘说，大约80%的用户年龄在18至28岁之间。

『 汉服这个词，超越了衣服，涵盖了茶艺，射箭和古筝等其他文化瑰宝。』

当然还有更传统的方法来传播汉服生活方式，比如在纸上。